After lots of cutting, I finally removed the last bit of styrene from the skins. Being the perfectionist that I am, I see lots of flaws in my work, mostly near round edges. At some points I hope to build a (Mostly Printed) CNC machine to redo the skins, but for now these will do to give an idea of the size of things. I measured the rear door and it came out the size the blueprints specify, so that can be a good first test for my 3D printed frame.
It’s been a lot of work, but I’m getting close to completing the hand cut styrene skins for R2-D2. I’ve completed both the front inner and rear inner skins as well as the front outer skin. Now all that’s left is the rear outer skin, but that too are a lot of little squares to cut out. Tonight I quickly taped the ones I had finished together, and it suddenly looks like an Astromech.
In the mean time I’ve been doing some investigation into creating my own custom remote controls for driving the droid when time comes. Inspired by StealthRC, I want to create some remotes that can be easily hidden in the pockets of a sweater, and the size and shape of the old Wii Nunchuk seemed to fit quite well.
As I want to use as much off the shelf electronics as possible, I probably need to adjust the width of the controller a bit as the bottom part is too slim to fit the Adafruit Feather. I’m also not sure if I want to stay with the 500mAh lipo that I’ve been testing with, or that I want to see if I can fit the 1200mAh version in.
My plan is to use a raspberry PI as the receiving end of the bluetooth connections (I also ordered a chinese replica of the Playstation Move Navigation controller) and use I2C to control the various subsystems, for which I can then use Arduino’s again.
I’ve made a start cutting the styrene skins for R2-D2, but that has proven to be a lot harder than I thought. It takes several cuts to actually go through the 1mm plastic and quite a lot of pressure. It’s definately not going to be done in a single evening 😉 Additionally I probably need to do some additional clean up; despite the metal ruler it’s hard to make the knife cut completely straight …
I’ve been busy over the last 2 weeks creating a DIY camera dolly to make a short video for the ColorFabb Time-Lapse Contest 2015. There were some issues with the dolly though, most of which are related to the resolution for the pan and tilt movements. I had the components directly on the stepper motor shafts, but even with microsteps it just wasn’t enough to do several frames per layer. Should I attempt this again, I will need to look into gearing.